Vendredi, 24 janvier 2014

EVOO: COUP DE COEUR DANS LE SUD-OUEST

Vanessa Huet

Avec une cuisine complexe et délicate, le EVOO est certainement un de mes grands coups de cœur.

 

C'est bravant les -25C d'une soirée hivernale qu'on passe la porte du EVOO, curieuses de comprendre le terme "cuisine soignée" utilisé par le resto pour se décrire. Ouvert par trois jeunes passionnés, il fait partie de cette belle vague de regain dont jouissent les quartiers du Sud-Ouest. On y retrouve Claudie Harvey en avant scène, puis Sophie Ouellet et Peter Saunders, les artisans de talent, aux fourneaux. À notre grand bonheur, c'est une petite musique jazz et une odeur de viande grillée qui nous accueillent.

Pour donner le coup d'envoi à la soirée, on commence par deux cocktails maison, pas trop sucrés. Un populaire des lieux, le gin avec purée de framboise, basilic, jus de citron et bulles. Également, le martini au cidre de glace, bourbon et jus de pomme. Avec son odeur de cannelle et son côté fumé, il est particulièrement réussi.



La première belle surprise arrive, un amuse-bouche d'esturgeon fumé de la Société Orignal sur une purée de coing et petits morceaux de concombre. À la fois salé, sucré, avec le côté fumé qui reste en bouche, le tout est délicat. C'est à ce moment précis que je comprends le terme de "cuisine soignée". Qui, aujourd'hui, se donne la peine de servir des amuse-bouches entre les services? Décidément, la suite promet.



On dépose un petit pain rond. Je le tâte un peu, par habitude, pour en connaître la fraîcheur. Il est chaud et croquant. En plus d'être sans gluten, on nous explique qu'il est fait maison par Peter et que la saveur change au gré de son inspiration. Aujourd'hui, c'est fromage de chèvre, épinards et tomates rôties. Le pain est servi avec une huile d'olive -au goût délicat- de La Belle Excuse.

En entrée, on tente la salade au cheddar de chèvre. Fraîche et complexe, elle est servie avec des choux de Bruxelles, des poires à la camomille, des champignons homard, du cheddar de chèvre vieilli 6 mois, du riz "puffé" maison  et un trait d'huile de caméline. Pour l'accompagner, ce sera le tataki d'espadon. Présenté sur un lit d'avocat, il est accompagné d'échalotes marinées et radis, avec une petite moutarde maison, une réduction sucrée de café et du foie de lotte séchée. Le tout est parsemé d'un peu de café qui lui donne une légère amertume et un parfum original. On s'amuse entre les notes de café, le poisson frais qui se défait en bouche et les grains de moutarde qui éclatent sous nos dents.



Sur le menu, difficile de passer à côté des ravioli au cacao. On parle ici de ravioli dont la pâte a été mélangée avec un peu de cacao - rien à voir avec le chocolat - et renferment une généreuse garniture de queue de bœuf braisée. La bouchée est bien salée et légèrement sucrée à cause de cette sauce au coing et Madeira qui l'accompagne. Je cherche, en vain, une cuiller à proximité pour finir cette sainte sauce. Je lève les yeux, personne ne me regarde. Je décide donc de faire l'impensable: je passe mon doigt dans l'assiette. Une seule fois, quand même. J'ai des principes.



Pour nous permettre de mieux accueillir la suite, on nous présente deux suçons canneberge et mascarpone, avec une petite poudre fine de pin. C'est finalement une sorte de sorbet, peu sucré et rafraîchissant. L'époque où nous répétait "arrête de jouer avec ta nourriture" est dépassée.



Les ris de veau. Il y a ceux qui les aiment et ceux qui en ont peur. Cette partie mystérieuse -qui n'a rien à voir avec du riz, bien sûr, ni avec le cerveau contrairement à une croyance assez répandue- est une partie méconnue qui peut révéler de belles surprises. Ici, ce sont des petits morceaux de ris de veau, préparés dans une croûte de polenta qui les rend délicieusement croustillants. À bon entendeur, c'est une bonne version pour convertir les sceptiques!



On ne peut partir sans goûter au magret de canard, qui nous a été recommandé. Ce sont des morceaux de viande généreux à la croûte croustillante et salée, accompagnés de légumes et raisins bleus. Évitez de faire comme moi et goûtez y en début de repas, car ce plat mérite vraiment d'avoir les sens en éveil.



En grande finale, on tente deux desserts, préparés par Sophie. D'abord la crème à la courge et chocolat blanc. Ce sont des petits morceaux de gâteau aux amandes, bien grillés, sur une crème de courge et chocolat blanc, avec une pointe de coriandre et de lime. Le tout est accompagné de chips de courge compressée et une glace à la fève tonka. Puis, le Banoffe. C'est un sablé au beurre couvert d'une banane caramélisée avec sirop de vanille, complétée par une crème fraîche maison à la texture particulièrement onctueuse, un bon trait de dulce de leche et des morceaux de toffee. Les deux desserts sont de vraies petites œuvres d'art qui jouent avec les textures.



Des mélanges audacieux, en restant dans la subtilité et l'équilibre, des propriétaires passionnés qui ont les yeux pétillants en parlant de leurs plats et qui travaillent avec des petits producteurs, le EVOO m'a convaincue, et bien plus que d'autres grands restaurants. J'y retournerai sans hésiter pour goûter au brunch ou simplement pour une soirée tranquille entre amis.

EVOO
3426 Notre Dame Ouest
(514) 846-3886
www.restaurantevoo.com

À surveiller
-Mer-Ven midi: 2 services à 18$, 3 services à 21$
-Jeudi soir: menu 3 services à 35$
-Leurs brunchs de la fin de semaine sont réputés. Sans dévoiler de secret, celui de la St-Patrick promet d'être particulièrement glorieux.
-Les 29 et 30 mars, EVOO participera à l'Érablière Wellington qui rassemble chaque année plusieurs commerçants. Ce sera une  autre belle occasion de les découvrir!

RESTAURANT EVOO

SOCIÉTÉ ORIGNAL
VOYAGE AU PÉROU
Cet article est classé sous :Vanessa Huet Sud-Ouest Griffintown EVOO

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AAnay - 16 octobre 2020
Nom (pseudo)
Courriel (non-divulgé)
Lien Youtube
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