Vendredi, 5 juillet 2013

AU PAYS DES MANGEURS DE MANIOC

J’adore le Honduras; pour sa verdure, ses montagnes et son authenticité. Je l’aime avant tout pour les gens que j’y ai rencontrés. Je partage avec vous ma rencontre avec la culture des Garifunas, métissage culturel et temporel.

 

Vivre une immersion culturelle significative et riche en sens, qu’est-ce cela signifie ? Faut-il partir loin? Partir longtemps ? Être coupé de son monde, de sa réalité et plongé totalement dans une nouvelle culture ? Bien sûr, cela peut s’avérer être une expérience unique. Mais faire le choix d’un voyage de courte durée n’empêche pas la rencontre culturelle. J’ai vécu des expériences bouleversantes, troublantes ou dépaysantes en quelques heures ou en quelques jours. En voici une.

UN PEU D’HISTOIRE

Les Garifunas sont issus d’un métissage entre l’Afrique et les Caraïbes : des esclaves africains évadés et des populations autochtones des Caraïbes. Ce sont les seuls noirs du continent américain à ne pas avoir connu l’esclavage. Dans leur langue, Garifuna signifie « mangeurs de manioc ». La langue garifuna prend ses origines dans un idiome amérindien de la grande famille arawak.

L’histoire débute en 1635 quand des navires négriers font naufrage au large de l’île Saint-Vincent. Des esclaves réussissent à s’échapper et sont rescapés par des arawaks des Caraïbes. Des mariages entre les africains et les arawaks (caraïbes rouges) ont lieu et ils donnent naissance à des caraïbes noirs. Les caraïbes noirs ou Garifunas issus du métissage, ont adopté la culture, le mode de vie et la langue des caraïbes rouges.

Les Garifunas sont réputés être de bons guerriers. Ils ont résisté en effet pendant un temps à la colonisation britannique mais ont été déportés en 1796 sur l’île de Roatan. Plus de la moitié des Garifunas ont péri pendant le voyage. Ils sont restés sur Roatan pendant une dizaine d’années et se sont ensuite dispersés à travers l’Amérique centrale. Les Garifunas vivent aujourd’hui au Honduras et au Belize mais aussi au Guatemala et au Nicaragua.

LES ENDROITS AU HONDURAS OÙ J’AI FAIT LA RENCONTRE DE GARIFUNAS

PRÈS DE TELA

Tela est une municipalité côtière du Honduras. Elle se trouve dans le nord de la rive atlantique du pays, baignée par la mer des Caraïbes. Son nom proviendrait de Triunfo de la Cruz, qui se serait simplifié avec le temps. Wikipédia

Il existe plusieurs communautés Garifunas aux alentours de Tela : d’ouest en est Rio Tinto, Miami, Tornabe, San Juan, La Ensenada et enfin Triunfo de la Cruz.

Triunfo de la Cruz

J’ai entendu parler de Miguel par un nouvel ami hondurien de Tela. Miguel est français, habite le Honduras depuis 1995 dans un village garifuna; il a marié une femme  garifuna et de ce mariage sont nés 5 enfants franco-honduriens. Il a fondé Coco Tours et offre des séjours et expériences en dehors des sentiers battus et authentiques au Honduras.

Je ne suis pas normalement pas une grande fan des tours organisés mais je contacte tout de même Miguel qui se montre très à l’écoute et m’assure que tous ses tours sont faits en petits groupes et dans le plus grand respect de la population locale. Il nous fait visiter « son » village. Triunfo de la Cruz, situé à environ 5 km de Tela est là où il habite et cela fait donc de lui un excellent guide. Il ne s’est pas lassé de répondre à mes nombreuses questions.

Nous avons eu droit à un spectacle tout en musique, par des enfants qui apprennent la percussion dès le plus jeune âge. Je vous ai joint un vidéo de ce spectacle qui nous a tous fait craquer tellement ces petits bouts de chou étaient charmants.


Miami

Imaginez une lisière de terre, entre la mer et la lagune. Quelques huttes traditionnelles avec toit en chaume, sans eau courante, sans électricité… Libres de toute influence extérieure, ils vivent de la pêche. C’est ça Miami… On dit de Miami que c’est un village typique Garifuna. Mais les Garifunas habitent surtout à Tornabe et techniquement, Miami est habité par des « ladinos », des métissés (indigènes et européens).

DANS LES ENVIRONS DE LA CEIBA

Cayos Cochinos

Je manque de mots pour vous décrire la beauté de ce paradis turquoise. Cayos Cochinos, classé monument national marin est constitué de deux petites îles, Cayo Major et Cayo Menor et d’une douzaine d’îlots minuscules. Situé à environ 30 km au nord de la Ceiba, cet archipel est accessible seulement par bateau.

Aucune route, aucune voiture, aucun vélo. Les deux petites îles surnommées Chachahuate et Chachahuate 2 sont habitées par des Garifunas. Chachahuate  signifie « jumelle » dans la langue garifuna. On peut marcher d’une île à une autre en ayant de l’eau à la hauteur des genoux. Et pour vous donner une idée de la grandeur d’une des îles, elles se traverse en approximativement… en une vingtaine de pas !

La plongée et le snorkeling sont magnifiques à Cayos Cochinos.

Il est possible de passer la nuit sur Chachahuate. Expérience authentique, dans une autre dimension; on se croit carrément à l’autre bout du monde.

LES TOP 3 DE MES EXPÉRIENCES CULINAIRES CHEZ LES GARIFUNAS

Le tapado, une spécialité garifuna, dégusté dans un minuscule restaurant en bordure de mer. C’est une soupe à base de fruits de mer et de lait de coco. Un délice.

Les gâteaux à la noix de coco ! Tellement que j’en ai fait une provision en quittant Triunfo de la Cruz!

Un soir de panne de courant à Tela, à la chandelle, j’ai découvert le gifiti. Gifiti dans la langue garifuna, signifie « amer ». C’est un mélange d’herbes organiques et de racines avec du rhum qui a de multiples vertus médicinales. Célèbre à cause de son processus de brassage par le peuple garifuna qui l’appelle aussi la médecine de l’amour... Peut-être parce qu’il guérit supposément l’impuissance ou parce que la majorité des Garifunas ont été conçus grâce à ce fameux breuvage… Qui sait…

CE QUI M’A MARQUÉE

Les Garifunas font évidemment l’objet de curiosité car ils vivent encore des produits de la pêche, de leurs activités artisanales de musique et de danse.

Le mélange... Les Garifunas sont l’exemple parfait d’un mélange culturel, duquel métissage est né leur couleur propre. La musique, la danse et la langue des Garifunas ont été proclamées "Patrimoine Culturel immatériel de l'humanité" par l'UNESCO en 2001. Les Garifunas sont très attachés à leur culture dont ils retirent une grande fierté ! Pourquoi sont-ils aussi attachés à leur culture ? Milton Castillo, directeur du groupe "Nuevo Amanecer" répond que cette préservation culturelle est nécessaire afin que personne ne leur en invente une autre.

Cette culture, avec ses multiples origines, c’est la leur et ils en sont terriblement fiers. Comme quoi, quand on mélange, on bonifie.

Le temps... Faire une immersion dans un village Garifuna nous apprend à adopter un autre tempo. Le rythme est lent ; on y apprend la patience. J’y ai vu des enfants attendre le poisson pendant des heures et des heures. Ici, dans notre culture, nous n’attendons pas. Attendre est une perte de temps. Notre temps est comme une denrée rare. Il peut être gaspillé, dépensé, perdu…

S'intérioriser... On y apprend aussi à être avec soi-même. Ce temps, ici, qui est rempli à connecter, à communiquer et à socialiser, là-bas, une fois le soleil couché et pas d’électricité prend un tout autre sens.

A NE PAS MANQUER

Le Baja Mar Garifuna festival qui a lieu chaque année entre le 9 et le 24 juillet. Les membres de trois douzaines de communautés Garifunas se rassemblent et vous donnent la meilleure occasion de vivre la culture, la musique et la danse garifunas. Baja Mar est située sur la côte Nord du Honduras à l’ouest de Tela.

POUR VIVRE UNE IMMERSION

Garifonda appuie les communautés Garifunas et offre des voyages solidaires. J’ai vu à l’œuvre à Triunfo de la Cruz un projet de maisons faites en bouteilles de plastiques recyclés qui sont construites pour des familles dans le besoin.

 

VAYAS

COACHING DE VOYAGE

VISITEZ LE HONDURAS AVEC VAYAS

HONDURAS.COM

COCO TOURS

GARIFONDA

 

Des enfants Garifunas apprennent la percussionDes enfants Garifunas apprennent à jouer la percussion dans le village de Triunfo de la Cruz au Honduras.
Cet article est classé sous :Pascale Dufresne Honduras Garifunas Cayos Cochinos Voyage
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