Lundi, 10 mars 2014

LES ROCHEUSES EN TRAIN

« Tant qu’à aller dans l’Ouest canadien pour la première fois, autant voir les Rocheuses de près » ai-je annoncé à mes enfants en réservant nos places à bord du Rocky Mountaineer...

 
Un train panoramique qui assure entre autres la liaison entre Vancouver et Calgary en passant par Kamloops et Banff. A posteriori, c’est probablement l’une des plus spectaculaires aventures ferroviaires. C’est du moins l’avis du National Geographic, qui a élu le trajet du Rocky Mountaineer comme « l’un des plus beaux voyages que l’on puisse effectuer dans une vie ». Au départ, nous ne nous attendions pourtant à rien de précis, sinon à voir des montagnes : « Encore plus hautes que les Laurentides, maman? » « Beaucoup plus hautes que les Laurentides, mon chaton! »



Après quelques jours d’activités intensives à Vancouver, l’embarquement se fait d’une gare réservée au Rocky Mountaineer, tôt le matin. L’atmosphère est à la détente, rien ne presse. Après tout, il s’agit d’un train réservé à la villégiature : tous les passagers sont en vacances. Notre wagon est doté d’un balcon d’où nous pourrons prendre des photos. Le grand luxe! Pendant deux jours, le périple nous promet non seulement des paysages extraordinaires, mais également la vue d’animaux sauvages et d’oiseaux de proie.



Deux heures seulement après notre départ, ma fille, toute excitée, aperçoit justement un grizzly. Son premier grizzly! J’entame « Tant qu’à aller dans l’Ouest canadien pour la première fois, autant voir les Rocheuses de près » ai-je annoncé à mes enfants en réservant nos places à bord du Rocky Mountaineer , un train panoramique qui assure entre autres la liaison entre Vancouver et Calgary en passant par Kamloops et Banff. un bout de conversation avec la dame qui prend des photos à côté de moi. Elle et son mari sont venus d’Australie. Leurs voisins de sièges sont originaires de Nouvelle-Zélande et plusieurs passagers viennent d’Angleterre et des États-Unis. L’âge des passagers varie entre 45 et 75 ans. Tous s’accordent à dire qu’il s’agit du « trip of a lifetime ».



FOURMIS DANS LES JAMBES NON INCLUSES


Côté confort, nos sièges concèdent suffisamment d’espace à nos jambes pour nous permettre de nous tenir confortablement debout devant nos sièges, histoire de rendre hommage au paysage grandiose. Nous prenons le petit déjeuner et le lunch au wagon-restaurant : la cuisine est exquise et abondante, notre serveur est adorable, c’est le bonheur ! De retour à nos sièges réservés, on ne voit pas le temps passer. Pour les enfants, c’est la fête, parce qu’on leur sert du chocolat chaud et du jus d’orange à volonté. Les parents ont droit à du vin et de la bière… tout aussi à volonté. En fin d’après-midi, on fait escale à Kamloops, où nous passerons la nuit. Quoi? C’est déjà l’heure de débarquer? On ne voit décidément pas le temps passer!



KAMLOOPS


Située à 350 kilomètres au nord-est de Vancouver, Kamloops compte autour de 90 000 habitants. L’hôtel Four Points by Sheraton où nous logeons n’est pas le plus prestigieux de la chaîne, mais il surplombe la vallée du fleuve Thompson ainsi que les montagnes, et se trouve à proximité de boutiques, de restaurants et de lieux de divertissement. Après l’agitation de Vancouver, cette petite ville de style Far West nous semble très exotique.



BANFF


Le lendemain matin, l’excitation est à son comble. C’est que la deuxième portion du voyage promet d’être la plus spectaculaire et nous ne sommes pas déçus! Le paysage entre Kamloops et Banff est en effet à couper le souffle.



Les lacs, dont la couleur turquoise est absolument stupéfiante, se disputent littéralement la vedette avec les glaciers aux sommets escarpés. Nous perdons vite le compte de nos « oh! » et de nos « ah! » émerveillés, et prenons assez de photos pour remplir une douzaine d’albums.





Notre estomac est loin d’être laissé pour compte; la gastronomie à bord est l’un des traits caractéristiques du voyage et l’expérience s’avère absolument inoubliable. Un peu comme sur un paquebot, les repas s’avèrent tous plus délectables les uns que les autres et se succèdent plus vite que nous pouvons en prendre. Une fois à Calgary, nous quittons presque à regret le personnel du train, qui s’est montré d’une générosité et d’une gentillesse exquises!



Si tout va si vite autour de vous que vous peinez à retrouver votre souffle, ce voyage, tout en longueur et en paysages à faire rêver, est la destination toute trouvée pour enfin trouver le moyen de relaxer. À n’en pas douter, voilà une expérience de voyage exceptionnelle.

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