Lundi, 26 mai 2014

SAN FRANCISCO - VOIR LES SÉQUOIAS DE PRÈS

Je voulais en voir depuis mon enfance. En préparant mon voyage en Californie, rien (ou presque) ne me faisait plus rêver que la perspective d’enfin pouvoir les admirer de près, de lever les yeux vers leurs cimes millénaires et de caresser leurs troncs. Je parle bien sûr des séquoias géants!

 
On dit que c’est à l’occasion de la Ruée vers l’or, au milieu du XIXe siècle, que furent découverts les premiers spécimens de Californie. Depuis, des milliers d’entre eux ont malheureusement disparu…On dit qu’en 1918, près de 90% des séquoias avaient été abattus pour satisfaire aux besoins de l’industrie! Dans les années 1960,  à l’école, à la télé ou dans un magazine, vous avez peut-être comme moi eu l’occasion de voir la photo d’une voiture passant littéralement dans un tunnel creusé au milieu du tronc d’un de ces vénérables arbres.



Une aberration ! Le parc national de Yosemite, dans lequel se trouvait cet arbre (qui n’a évidemment pas survécu et qu’on a dû abattre en 1969), est sans doute le plus visité par les touristes du monde entier ! Songez seulement que ces arbres, qui peuvent atteindre 100 mètres, peuvent surtout vivre plus de 2000 ans…



Situé dans les montagnes de la Sierra Nevada, et d’une superficie totale de 3 079 km2, Yosemite, reconnu patrimoine de l’humanité par l’UNESCO, est le troisième plus grand parc de Californie.  Ses arbres, ses chutes d’eau et ses pics de granit spectaculaires attirent chaque année plus de 3,5 millions de touristes. Quand on parle de grands espaces... Une visite de ce parc se prépare évidemment comme une expédition et vaut mieux avoir du temps devant soi !



Si votre séjour en Californie est de courte durée, et se limite plutôt à la région de San Francisco, je vous suggèreplutôt la visite de MuirWoods.Intéressé ? Suivez le guide !



JOHN MUIR, UN NATURALISTE PASSIONNÉ


À quelques kilomètres au nordde San Francisco, non loin du fameux village de Sausalito, le MuirWoods National Monument est l’unique forêt de la Bay Area où des séquoias géants ont pu échapper aux bûcherons du XIXe siècle. L’endroit porte le nomdu naturaliste dont le combat mena aux premières mesures de protection de l’environnement. Sa facilité d’accès et sa beauté en font un véritable incontournable!



Né en avril 1838 et décédé en 1914, John Muir fut l’un des premiers militants pour la protection de la nature. Ses lettres, essais et livres racontent ses aventures dans la nature et la vie sauvage, notamment dans les montagnes de la Sierra Nevada. C’est à son activisme que l’on doit la conversion de la vallée de Yosemite en parc national. On lui doit également la fondation du Sierra Club, l’une des plus importantes organisations de conservation des États-Unis.



UN PARC D’UNE VALEUR INESTIMABLE


C’est en 1905 que William Kent, membre du Congrès des États-Unis, acheta (au coût de 45 000$ à l’époque)  la vallée où est située MuirWoods, dans l’intention de la protéger du défrichement sauvage qui sévissait dans la région. Des centaines de maisons de San Francisco furent en effet construitesà partir des forêts de séquoias des alentours. Cet achat causa bien des soucis à l’homme d’affaires, grand admirateur de John Wood,qui dut se résoudre à céder 120 acres de terrainau gouvernement américain dès 1908.



C’est le président Théodore Roosevelt qui en fit un « monument national » la même année. Magnifiquement entretenu et véritable havre de paix, le parc accueille aujourd’hui entre 700 000 et 850 000 visiteurs par an venus y chercher le calme et la sérénité, voir la béatitude. Que pourrait inspirer d’autre ces arbres majestueux, témoins de l’histoire de l’humanité et nés bien longtemps avant la colonisation des États-Unis ?



Le parc abrite également toute une variété d’espèces animales, dont 69 espèces d’oiseaux, des amphibiens, des reptiles (tortues), des poissons en quantité et une trentaine d’espèces de petits mammifères (dont des coyotes, des loutres et des lynx).



Comptez entre une heure trente et trois heures pour faire le tour des sentiers de randonnées du parc (entre 3 et 10 kilomètres) et casser la croûte au petit restaurant bio.  N’oubliez surtout pas votre appareil photo ! L’accès au parc coûte 7$ et est gratuit après 18 heures. Il s’agit justement du moment où la horde des touristes déserte l’endroit. Un petit paradis, accessible aussi aux personnes en fauteuil roulant.



S’Y RENDRE


MuirWoods est à 19 km au nord à partir du Golden Gate. On y accède par la U.S. 101 et l’autoroute California 1. Personnellement, je m’y suis rendue en prenant un bus rouge de la compagnie City Sightseeing San Francisco, qui fait un arrêt à Sausalito et se spécialise dans les « Hop on – Hop off tours ». Pour 50$, ça vaut vraiment le coût. Un aller-retour d’un après-midi fort agréable et instructif. Pour visitez leur site Internet:



CITY-SIGHTSEEING.US

EN SAVOIR PLUS

ROSE-LINE-BRASSET

SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL
(Site en français)

LE SAN FRANCISCO DE JACK KEROUAC
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