Mercredi, 5 août 2015

UNE ROUTE DES SAVEURS TRÈS PRISÉE

Photos: Bernard Gauthier, Patricia Beauregard et Auberge La Grande Maison

Au-delà de ses montagnes escarpées et de ses routes sinueuses, la Route des Saveurs est le parcours incontournable à emprunter pour découvrir la belle région de Charlevoix et ses meilleurs produits du terroir.

 

C’est à Baie-Saint-Paul que la Route des Saveurs prend son origine. Confinée au bas de montagnes abruptes, Baie-Saint-Paul est le point de départ pour découvrir producteurs et restaurateurs liés de près aux produits de la ferme. Surnommée le paradis des artistes, Baie-Saint-Paul est aussi une charmante municipalité de 7 000 habitants ayant la plus grande concentration de galeries d’art et d’artisanat au pays. Mais il y a encore plus. Au quai de Baie-Saint-Paul, les sportifs peuvent s’adonner à plusieurs activités comme le kayak de mer, la natation et le vélo dans un sentier spécialement aménagé.

Un premier arrêt s’impose au restaurant Le Pierre Narcisse, situé à l’entrée du village. Charmant, sympathique et convivial, l’établissement propose de tout à des prix très abordables.

Sur la route 381, en direction de Saint-Urbain, bon nombre de producteurs accueillent les visiteurs pour leur faire déguster de nouvelles saveurs en les invitant à découvrir leurs installations. C’est le cas des Champignons Charlevoix, des Voilières Baie-Saint-Paul, de la Chocolaterie Cynthia, du Domaine de la Vallée du Bras et du Centre de l’Émeu de Charlevoix.

Selon Raymonde Tremblay, présidente du Centre de l’Émeu de Charlevoix, l’Émeu d’Australie est le deuxième plus grand oiseau du monde, tout juste derrière l’autruche. Sa hauteur peut atteindre deux mètres. Situé à Saint-Urbain, il s’agit de la plus grande ferme d’émeus au Canada en activité depuis plus de 15 ans. Ce centre de production abrite quelque 400 émeus de tous âges et assure la mise en marché de viandes et de produits corporels à base d’huile d’émeu. Curieux de nature, l’émeu est fasciné par la présence des étrangers et par tous les produits métalliques comme les appareils-photo!

Toujours à Baie-Saint-Paul, le Groupe Germain, qui vient d’acquérir ce qui était autrefois l’Hôtel La Ferme du Massif de Charlevoix, met non seulement l’accent sur une architecture contemporaine de ses cinq pavillons, mais également sur sa cuisine orientée principalement sur les produits du terroir. Les producteurs régionaux sont sollicités à l’élaboration des divers menus.

En soirée, j’ai rencontré le chef cuisinier Steve Michel, qui m’a préparé quelques entrées inoubliables, dont une mousse au saumon. Le plat principal était une épaule d’agneau tendre et savoureuse bien apprêtée. Quant au dessert, ce fut un pouding chômeur préparé avec une touche locale. Rien de comparable avec ce que nous connaissons.

Une adresse utile à Baie-Saint-Paul : L’Auberge La Grande Maison. L’établissement dispose de 23 chambres et d’un nouveau centre de bain thermal intérieur avec deux bassins chauds, une chute froide et un sauna. Très pratique pour demeurer au cœur des activités du village.

Poursuivant la route vers l’Isle-aux-Coudres, un arrêt s’impose à la Boulangerie Bouchard. La propriétaire de l’endroit, Noëlle-Ange Harvey, explique qu’au moins 1 000 personnes viennent acheter et déguster les nombreux petits plats faits maison chaque jour en haute saison depuis des générations. La réputation n’est plus à faire. Et qu’est-ce qu’on y retrouve? Des brioches, pains aux raisins et au chocolat, tartes, biscuits, pâtés, rillettes et cretons, fromages régionaux, quiches et j’en passe.  

Mon passage à la Boulangerie Bouchard est l’un de mes plus beaux moments. Noëlle-Ange Harvey est une femme rassembleuse, qui veut développer et encourager l’achat des produits locaux et régionaux. Pour elle, l’entreprise a une âme et rien au monde ne la fera changer d’orientation dans son plan de mise en marché.

Pour découvrir la région sous un autre angle, je vous suggère fortement d’emprunter le Train léger de Charlevoix. En haute saison, quatre départs quotidiens sont assurés depuis La Malbaie à Baie-Saint-Paul dans les deux directions, avec des arrêts à Saint-Irénée et Les Éboulements.

Le train est composé de deux wagons et roule à une vitesse moyenne de 50 kilomètres/heure, ce qui permet d’observer la faune aquatique du fleuve Saint-Laurent comme ce fut le cas avec la présence d’au moins trois bélugas à mi-chemin entre La Malbaie et Baie-Saint-Paul lors de mon passage. Surpris et étonnés, plusieurs touristes se sont alors rués sur leur appareil-photo pour saisir ces moments magiques.

La première partie du trajet prévoit un arrêt pour visiter le Domaine Forget à Saint-Irénée. Réunissant quelque 500 musiciens semi-professionnels des quatre coins du monde, les étudiants viennent ainsi parfaire leurs connaissances en vue d’une carrière dans un orchestre symphonique.  

Jusqu’au 23 août, c’est le Festival International du Domaine Forget. Les représentations se déroulent à la salle Françoys-Bernier, une salle dont l’acoustique est égale à celle de la Maison symphonique de Montréal. L’endroit est très vaste et les étudiants peuvent aussi bien répéter dans de petites cabines aménagées sur le domaine qu’à l’extérieur sous un arbre.

Mon dernier arrêt est à Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive/Les Éboulements, tout juste en face de l’Isle-aux-Coudres. Le train était à l’heure et ma tournée prévoyait une visite au Musée maritime de Charlevoix. Pendant plusieurs décennies, des centaines d’ouvriers ont construit des goélettes servant au transport de marchandises sur la Côte-Nord en l’absence d’accès routier.

Outre le remorqueur Félicia, dont la construction remonte  à 1923, deux autres goélettes font l’objet d’une curiosité particulière : il s’agit du Saint-André, classé bien culturel du Québec depuis 1978, et du Jean-Yvan Grimpez qui représente l’avant-dernière goélette construite en 1958. Les touristes ont accès aux bateaux de la cale à la timonerie. Le musée raconte l’évolution de la goélette remplacée au fil du temps par des bateaux à fond plat. Utilisée jusqu’à la fin des années 70, la goélette  a cédé sa place aux gros navires et aux camions de plus en plus sollicités pour le transport des marchandises.

DOMAINE FORGET

BOULANGERIE BOUCHARD

AUBERGE LA GRANDE MAISON

HÔTEL LE GERMAIN CHARLEVOIX

MUSÉE MARITIME DE CHARLEVOIX

CENTRE DE L’ÉMEU DE CHARLEVOIX

RESTAURANT AU PIERRE NARCISSE

TRAIN TOURISTIQUE DE CHARLEVOIX

BUREAU TOURISTIQUE DE CHARLEVOIX

BERNARD GAUTHIER

Cet article est classé sous :Bernard Gauthier Tourisme Charlevoix
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